Back from the brink of extinction, the Pacific bluefin tuna population is rebounding at an impressive pace. A strong, global management plan will ensure its long-term survival.
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From my years spent cooking across Europe to my turn as a cocinero in Baja, Mexico, to my newest restaurant in San Diego, my interest in serving up the freshest local ingredients I can find remains constant. No matter what I’m cooking, I focus on the ingredients, not fancy techniques. And when I find amazing, natural ingredients, I know I had better make sure those ingredients are going to be around for a long time.
Here in Southern California, we are fortunate to have an abundance of delicious seafood options practically in our backyard. The trick is to source items that not only taste great but also promote the long-term health of our fisheries, our local fishing economy, and our ocean. Striking that balance is not always easy – especially when doing what’s best for the planet means avoiding popular seafood dishes due to environmental concerns.
For years, customers have asked why there’s no Pacific bluefin tuna on my menus. Given that it is arguably the most delicious fish in the ocean – so good it requires minimal prep or seasoning – it’s a fair question. As someone who started out as a fisherman, I also get why my friends down at the docks call me out on it. “Come on,” they say. “I thought you were all about local – you don’t get fresher than this.”
Tasty as it is, Pacific bluefin tuna was overfished by commercial fishing fleets from around the Pacific for decades. By 2010, the stock had been depleted by 98 percent from historic levels. Fear of serving up one of the last Pacific bluefin tuna made not putting it on my menus an easy decision.
But there’s good news: Pacific bluefin tuna is making a comeback. The most recent data show conservation measures have turned things around and the population is rebounding. The science and management have improved such that Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch – the gold standard for chefs and consumers who want to source and eat seafood fished or farmed in ways that don’t harm the environment – recently upgraded some of its Pacific bluefin tuna recommendations from red (avoid) to yellow (a good alternative). In the 25 years Seafood Watch has been rating seafood, that’s a first.
Given that the fishery was on the brink of collapse, this turnabout may seem sudden. But it took years of work by a contingency of Pacific nations, the fishing industry, and conservation organizations. In an unprecedented show of global cooperation, the Pacific nations that oversee Pacific bluefin formed a working group to establish a science-based management plan featuring strict fishing quotas and an ambitious rebuilding target. The tuna fishing industry – including U.S. commercial and recreational fleets – followed the plan and reduced their catch. At the time, I joined nearly 200 chefs and other culinary leaders in pledging not to serve or promote the consumption of this valuable and imperiled species until “meaningful action was evident.”
According to the latest stock assessments, the population size of Pacific bluefin tuna reached the initial recovery targets more than a decade ahead of schedule. I’d call that meaningful action. But a yellow rating from Seafood Watch indicates there’s more work to do to get Pacific bluefin tuna that green – best choice – rating.
So, where does that leave chefs who are grappling with whether to serve this delicacy? It’s not a decision I made lightly. Ultimately, I’m choosing to celebrate the win and integrate locally sourced Pacific bluefin into my menu. Per Seafood Watch guidance, by sticking with US Pacific bluefin, I can be confident I’m serving yellow-rated product. But don’t expect to find a Pacific bluefin tuna steak offered up as a main course. As the yellow rating suggests, we need to go slow and start with just a taste.
This amazing creature’s return is not only a win for tuna lovers and ocean conservationists alike, it’s also a win for local fishermen who want to do right by the fish but also need to make a living. As more chefs opt to source Pacific bluefin tuna, we all need to be vigilant about ensuring we are buying and serving yellow-rated product. Demanding sustainable product will not only protect the fish but also create new economic opportunities for California fishermen. Again, it’s all about finding that balance between the long-term health of our fisheries, our local fishing economy, and our ocean.
After decades of taking a hard pass, putting Pacific bluefin tuna on the menu for the first time is mind blowing. But it’s exciting to see that international collaboration can bring about that balance. There is huge potential to expand fishing and dining opportunities in a sustainable way if we go slow, follow the science, and commit to finishing what we started.
In the months ahead, the Pacific nations – including the United States – have a responsibility to put a plan in place that assures the long-term health of the fishery. I’ll be watching what comes next and am prepared to pull Pacific bluefin off the menu at the first sign of trouble. But I’m hopeful the momentum we’ve seen to date will drive an outcome that bolsters the U.S. fishing industry, enables me to keep serving delicious Pacific bluefin tuna, and ultimately gets Pacific bluefin tuna a green rating.
Drew Deckman is a Michelin star chef on a mission to revolutionize sustainable food culture by committing to zero waste and prioritizing sustainable sourcing. In addition to multiple restaurants in Baja, Mexico, he recently opened 31ThirtyOne in San Diego’s North Park neighborhood. Serving only locally sourced ingredients, he donates 1% of monthly revenue to help farmers implement carbon farming projects. Deckman is a member of Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Blue Ribbon Task Force.
Photo credit: Jim Sullivan
Seafood Watch, a program of Monterey Bay Aquarium, is helping to transform how seafood is fished and farmed so that people and the planet can thrive for the long-term. Visit SeafoodWatch.org to learn more.
